Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava, Spain: Beaches, Old Town & Insider Tips for Your Visit

Tossa de Mar in Spain is one of our favorite places on the Costa Brava. We’ve been here many times because we have family in the region whom we visit regularly. That’s why we know the area almost like locals.

The seaside town on the Costa Brava has around 6,000 residents and is quite manageable in size. However, during the summer, Tossa transforms into a popular destination, attracting many holidaymakers.

Unlike many other Mediterranean resorts, Tossa has managed to resist mass tourism. You won’t find large hotel complexes, party tourists, or loud clubs like those in Lloret de Mar. Instead, the town maintains a sophisticated and relaxed atmosphere, even when it gets busy in the summer.

The Beach of Tossa de Mar: Relaxation and Activities on the Costa Brava

Tossa de Mar has three beaches, with the largest being Platja Gran. In front of the beach, you will find the promenade and the old town, filled with numerous cafés and restaurants. At the eastern end, you will discover the medieval fortress and the pier for boat excursions. The sand is coarse, and even in the height of summer, the water remains refreshingly cool. Although we have no solid proof, the water here always feels a bit colder compared to other beaches along the Costa Brava.

After about three meters in the water, it becomes deep quite suddenly. A gentle walk into the sea is not possible here, you will need to start swimming right away. Perhaps it is this depth that makes the water feel cooler. Interestingly, even close to the shore, you will spot plenty of small fish swimming around, and you can almost always see them. It is best to bring swimming goggles to observe the fish underwater.

Platja del Codolar: The Hidden Beach Below the Old Town of Tossa de Mar

The third beach is the small Platja del Codolar. You can see it directly from the entrance of the fortress. The beach is sheltered by rocks below the historic old town of Vila Vella.

The Old Town of Tossa de Mar – Vila Vella: History and Breathtaking Views

The medieval fortress and the old town are among the highlights of Tossa de Mar and are protected as historical monuments. The entire old town is surrounded by a city wall and seven towers. In the narrow streets, which lead up steep staircases, there are about 80 inhabited houses and several restaurants. Further up, you will find a Gothic church ruin offering a wonderful view of the town and the sea.

If you continue towards the lighthouse, you will reach the statue of actress Ava Gardner. From here, you will have a breathtaking view of the beach and the town. In the 1950s, Ava Gardner filmed a movie here that made Tossa internationally famous and boosted tourism.

If you climb further, you will reach the highest point of the old town, the lighthouse. Inside the building, you will find a museum that showcases the development of Mediterranean lighthouses. The lighthouse is surrounded by a large terrace that offers the widest view of the sea. There is also a café where you can enjoy snacks and drinks. The climb takes about 30 minutes and is not particularly strenuous.

The Center of Tossa de Mar – Vila Nova: Vibrant Life Outside the City Walls

Vila Nova, technically also part of the old town, lies outside the historic city walls. This is where you will find the vibrant center of Tossa de Mar, filled with numerous restaurants, bars, tapas shops, fashion boutiques, and souvenir stores.

In the summer, the narrow streets of Vila Nova are bustling with activity. During the day, people stroll through the streets, shop, or enjoy an ice cream. In the evening, a romantic, medieval atmosphere takes over, with street performers providing entertainment.

Our 4 Insider Tips: Restaurants and Pool Club

We always find it hard to recommend just a few restaurants. However, since we have been coming here regularly for many years, we know many great places and can confidently say they offer consistently high quality.

1. Restaurant El Rincon de Galicia

For fresh fish or excellent meat, we highly recommend the Galician restaurant “El Rincon de Galicia“. It offers rustic yet high-quality dishes. We especially recommend the “Rape a la Plancha,” or monkfish. We have tried monkfish in many places, but it tastes the best here. The Pulpo a la Gallega and the croquettes are also highly recommended.

2. Pizzeria Bello with a View of Tossa de Mar Beach

In our opinion, the best pizza and pasta can be found at Pizzeria Bello. Here you can sit by the promenade and enjoy the view of Playa Grande and the castle. The owners emigrated from Germany decades ago and speak fluent German.

3. Club Aire Lliure – Pool Club: Enjoy a Relaxing Day by the Pool

If you want to spend a day by the pool, we recommend Club Aire Lliure near Cala Llevadó. You can enjoy a relaxing day by the pool here. There is a restaurant right by the pool with surprisingly good food, as well as snack, ice cream, and drink stalls. Toilets and changing rooms are also available.

There is also a sports field where you can play soccer or basketball. Relaxing music plays by the pool. If you, like us, are staying in an apartment without a pool, Club Aire Lliure is very convenient. It’s only about a five-minute drive from Tossa de Mar.

Delicious Pastries at Supermercat Palou

Supermercat Palou is centrally located in Tossa. In the adjoining bakery, you’ll find, in our opinion, the best Xuxos in the region. If you like pastries filled with cream, you’ll definitely find something delicious here. The Xuxos are a tasty Catalan specialty filled with Crema Catalana that you should definitely try!

Tossa de Mar Travel Guide

This seaside resort on the Costa Brava is beautifully located right by the sea. Just behind Tossa stretches the mountainous landscape of Massís de les Cadiretes, also known as Les Gavarres, which fascinates with its untouched nature and numerous hiking trails.

To help you make the most of your time in and around Tossa de Mar, we’ve put together helpful tips and recommendations.

Hiking in the Area

While Tossa de Mar is right by the sea, its location also offers perfect opportunities for hikes into the mountainous hinterland. The trails lead through dense forests and offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. You can discover hidden coves or simply enjoy the tranquility of nature. For those who love to stay active, this is a great complement to a beach day.

Staying in Tossa: Beautiful and Affordable Central Accommodations

When it comes to accommodations in Tossa de Mar, the motto is quality over quantity. As mentioned, the town is quite chic and very popular, so early booking is recommended. In terms of value for money, we recommend a vacation apartment over a hotel. You’ll often have more space and flexibility. We frequently find great options on Booking.com*.

Rental Car

Having a car in this region is very advantageous. Places like Playa de Aro, Girona, Lloret de Mar, and even Barcelona are easily accessible. Traffic on the Costa Brava is generally relaxed, but you should drive carefully on the winding coastal roads. Parking can also be challenging during the high season. Find out more in the video below.

We always book our rental car in advance to pick it up and drop it off directly at the airport. We use this car rental comparison tool* to find the best deals and save money.